What are the different stages of lip dryness?

Lip problems are common at any age: 1 in 2 people say they suffer from them regularly. Naturally fragile and exposed to daily stresses, lips are vulnerable to dryness. They can experience chapping, cracking and fissures: discomfort is then at its peak! For each stage of lip dryness, discover the habits to adopt to prevent things getting worse and keep your lips soft, supple and healthy.

What are the different stages of lip dryness?

Understanding the Causes of Dry Lips

A Physiological Vulnerability to Dryness

Lips have unique characteristics, somewhere between skin and mucous membrane:

  • A very thin epidermis: three times fewer cell layers than facial skin.
  • The absence of keratin, the skin compound that forms a barrier against external aggressors;
  • The absence of sweat and sebaceous glands: lips produce neither sweat nor sebum, so they are not protected by a hydrolipidic film;
  • A low capacity to retain water: they dehydrate quickly;
  • A low melanin content: lip skin defends itself poorly against the harmful effects of sun exposure.¹ ²

An Area of the Body Exposed to Aggressors

Lips are exposed daily to various weakening factors:

  • Cold, dry air in winter or from air conditioning (or hot wind, excessive indoor heating).
  • Outdoor sports, which increase the flow of dry air breathed through the mouth and expose the lips to cold, wind and sun...
  • Respiratory conditions such as the winter cold or allergic rhinitis, which force you to breathe through the mouth. Secretions and repeated nose-blowing also irritate the skin.
  • Insufficient hydration: not drinking enough water contributes to drying out the skin, the lips being affected first.
  • UV exposure of the face, particularly when it has caused sunburn.
  • Smoking: smoking constricts the small blood vessels in the lips, hindering the supply of oxygen and nutrients.
  • Certain medications that have the side effect of drying out the lips: retinoids for acne, but also diuretics, certain antihistamines, cholesterol medications, chemotherapy drugs...
  • Certain conditions (eczema, psoriasis, thyroid problems, allergies...) and deficiencies in micronutrients (B vitamins, zinc, iron).³ ⁴ ⁵

Some people lick their lips, out of habit or to soften them when they're dry. But saliva contains irritant enzymes and evaporates very quickly, which only maintains the dryness.⁶ ⁷ ⁸ ⁹

Why Do Dry Lips Become Cracked?

As we've seen, lips are not well equipped to stay hydrated and supple in the face of various daily aggressors. And yet their main functions rely on their mobility! Indeed, lips are used for eating, drinking, chewing, breathing, speaking... They are also constantly called upon for our facial expressions: smiling, laughing, pouting... As a result, dry lips can easily chap and split. And every movement of the lips keeps the cracks going, which can eventually start to bleed.

Spotting Dryness Early to Prevent It Getting Worse

Chapped, cracked lips are a source of discomfort, pain, and, for some people, self-consciousness. What's more, cracks struggle to heal. They also provide an entry point for germs (bacteria, fungi, the herpes virus) responsible for infections.

Look after your lips from the very first signs of dryness: this way you can prevent things getting worse and keep smiling! ¹⁰ ¹¹ ¹²

What Stage of Dryness Are My Lips At, and What Should I Do?

Stage 1. Normal to Dry Lips

  • What you see
    • Small areas of harder skin, superficial flaking.
    • Slightly pale, dry, rough lips.
  • What you feel
    • Moderate discomfort.
    • Sensations of tightness and taut skin.
  • What you can do
    • Resist the urge to lick your lips when you feel them getting dry.
    • Make sure you stay hydrated (at least 1.5 L of water a day).
    • Avoid irritant cosmetics.
    • Exfoliate your lips from time to time with a gentle product.
    • Use a lip balm, particularly before bed.¹³

Stage 2. Very Dry to Chapped Lips

  • What you see
    • Clearly visible dead skin and flaking.
    • Sometimes, redness around the lips.
    • A chapped, cracked surface.
  • What you feel
    • Sensations of tightness, discomfort, burning and/or tingling.
    • A need to frequently moisten your lips or apply a lip balm to relieve the discomfort.
    • Discomfort or difficulty moving your lips.
  • What you can do
    • Resist the temptation to scratch your lips or pull at the flaking skin.
    • Wear a mask or scarf over your mouth in cold, dry weather.
    • Systematically use a lip balm, indoors and outdoors.

 

The URGO Product You Need: URGO Damaged Lips Ultra-Rich Balm

URGO Damaged Lips Ultra-Rich Repair Balm

Dry, cracked and calloused skin

For the daily care of very dry to chapped lips, the ultra-rich balm based on purified honey, URGO DAMAGED LIPS, protects, soothes and repairs.

  • Intensive repair of damaged lips
  • Barrier effect: 24-hour hydration – protects against dehydration
  • Nourishes, hydrates and softens lips
  • Prevents chapping and cracking on the lips

The rich, creamy texture of URGO DAMAGED LIPS has a delicious honey scent.

Stage 3. Cracked or Split Lips

  • What you see
    • Localised cracks, ringed with redness.
    • The skin breaks in places.
    • Sometimes, small blisters and scabs form.
  • What you feel
    • Burning, throbbing pain.
    • Discomfort when touching your lips, speaking, eating or smiling.¹⁴
  • What you can do
    • Dab the crack with a little salt water on a cotton bud.
    • Briefly apply an ice cube in a compress to the lip if uncomfortable.
    • Use a rich lip balm, reapplying regularly, along with a targeted treatment to protect and repair the cracks.¹⁵

 

The URGO Product You Need: URGO Filmogel® Lip Cracks

URGO Chapped Lips Filmogel

Dry, cracked and calloused skin

URGO LIP CRACKS fills, repairs and protects lip cracks thanks to its innovative Filmogel® technology.

  • Fills and repairs the crack quickly
  • Cleanses thanks to its formula with tea tree essential oil
  • Soothes immediately, throughout the day, and protects during meals
  • 5-hour protection: purifying action – water-resistant

Compatible with make-up, URGO LIP CRACKS doesn't sting (alcohol-free).

Can be used alongside URGO DAMAGED LIPS balm.

Find out about our advice for specifically looking after your damaged, cracked lips.

 

Sources:

1 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK507900/ 2 https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8251770/ 3 https://www.healthline.com/health/smoking/smokers-lip 4 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK470592/ 5 https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/chapped-lips 6 https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/heal-dry-chapped-lips 7 https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-06-30/chapped-lips-guide-how-to-treat-dry-cracked-lips/104014036 8 https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22005-chapped-lips 9 https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-06-30/chapped-lips-guide-how-to-treat-dry-cracked-lips/104014036 10 https://www.advdermatology.com/blog/are-my-dry-lips-dangerous/ 11 https://www.carehospitals.com/symptoms/chapped-lips 12 https://sante.lefigaro.fr/mieux-etre/beaute/levres/quels-elements-favorisent-leur-dessechement 13 https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/heal-dry-chapped-lips 14 https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/pharmacology-toxicology-and-pharmaceutical-science/chapped-lips 15 https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/327180#prevention

URGO Filmogel® Lip Cracks and URGO Filmogel® Damaged Lips Ultra-Rich Balm are cosmetic products. Please read the labelling instructions before use. 11/2025